Itbayat: Living on a coral
Down to the Port of Paganaman
Itbayat Island is actually a giant uplifted coral reef, and research claims it’s one of the world’s largest. Knowing this first time around made me think how this was possible. I guess that explains how the island doesn’t have a shoreline and the texture of the cliffs does resemble a giant coral. Interesting isn’t it? So how is it like living on a giant coral reef?
A vine covered house
Little is known about this island and guidebooks tell very little about it, even none at all, which can be hard really to make an itinerary for it. We only have an overnight stay allotted on this island and its a damn short time to explore after seeing how huge the place is and its wide potential for exploration. The main town center of Itbayat is surprisingly modern in structures for a rural town and really peaceful. Electricity here is from 12noon to 12 midnight. I swear if your a fugitive in hiding, this would be a perfect place to live in if you just want to disappear from the world.
Itbayat Mini Library
There are very basic facilities for the town here. There’s this amusing little library there, I swear I would like to see the books they have but it was closed at that time. This also made me think that this would be a perfect place to do a book-giving outreach and the challenge is going here.
Anyways we passed by this town and the folks here are very friendly. Apparently, people here aren’t “Ivatan” but are also called “Itbayat” and they are good looking actually, like mestizos and mestizas. They have a very distinct eyes for a Filipino.
A failed attempt on climbing a Mt Karoboboan
That afternoon, we were supposed to climb a low mountain called Mt Karoboboan, which the locals said was quite reachable from the town. So we headed on the direction they pointed, but after almost an hour of walking it seems we can’t see a mountain in our sight. Now this is a disadvantage of not having any information. As much as I’d like to continue further on, it was already getting late in the afternoon and we couldn’t risk being caught in the dark in an uncharted place so we decided to head back and go to the nearby Port of Paganaman instead.
Catch of the day
Port of Paganaman is a fisherman’s port. When we came there they were just sorting out their catch. And boy the fishes are big and looks so healthy here and colorful as well. We even saw a large captured murray eel coiled to a spear, and guess what, the spear was bent by the eel! So imagine how strong this eel was to bea able to bend that spear. On the port, we could also see their local version of bayanihan here. Since there are no shoreline here, at the end of the day, the fishermen have to secure their boats by carrying them up to the elevated platforms, Which isn’t an easy job due to the more than 45 degree of elevation so everyone helps out carrying them.
Starlite boat and cliff
Tony Bobony’s friends just kept on coming and we met a couple here, Richard and Dante. They own this blue starlite boat which they boast have been featured on some local tv travel channel before. He said that if we had gone here earlier that day, they could have taken us to the last island up north to Y’ami, a small island close to Taiwan abound with orchids and amazing sea life and reefs. Wow, I thought. He also talk of a lot of free divers here who are able to stay long under water for 5 to 10 minutes. They somehow managed to learn proper breathing techniques to be able to do that and swim fast enough even with wooden fins on their feet. Amazing.
Waiting for a sunset
Another problem he mentioned here are the illegal fishermen and divers who cross the Philippine borders to dive for the precious shells. Yes, those shells which they used for a lot of jewelry are very abundant here. Some ignorant locals who doesn’t know the value of these shells sell them to these border crossers on a very cheap price of 50 pesos to 100 pesos wherein the true value of these shells could go up to 500 to more than a thousand pesos in the market. So he and his fishermen friends keep close watch on the waters of Itbayat and protect them themselves as much as they can.
We waited for a nice sunset there at Paganaman but there were just too many clouds at that time. At the same time we were also hoping for some whale sighting which they said some pass by occasionally but there were none also. But we did get 3 fresh fish delivered by Richard and Dante at the guest house that night for our dinner and breakfast.
The Sta Maria church
A prominent landmark at the town is the Sta Maria Church. There is something special about its bell and church tower but I can’t quite remember. Maybe someone here knows about it’s architecture or something? But I do know their priest isn’t a Filipino but a Spaniard who lived most of his life in this island. I was able to talk to the local candidate, Nick Abad, that morning before he left. He mentioned that in Itbayat, there are 5 barrios with a total of 3000 population in the island. And he’s own his own to campaign. I must commend that person. He’s a one man army.
On the way to Paganaman in light
For the rest of the morning we decided to just go back at the port since we only have a little time left. We saw how the port looks more amazing in broad light. More stunning cliffs amidst blue waters. Fishing boats are already out into the ocean.
Back at the port, time to go
By mid day it was time to head back to the boat as there’s only one boat trip going to and fro the island. It’s a bit disappointing leaving the island without having to fully explore it. We were told of impressive caves, more stunning cliffs, singing rock formations and heritage sites around the area. It’s time to go back to Batan island, on our way back we promised ourselves we’ll return to this island to discover its hidden wonders. Unlike going here going back was more comfortable and fast due to the good weather. We boarded a vessel named Ocean Spirit and there were only six passengers including Richard, and we raced back to Batan island by the sea. Our next stop, Sabtang Island!
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Saturday, March 17th, 2007 at 9:19 pm 
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March 17th, 2007 at 10:10 pm
Gawd, the vine covered house looked damn beautiful, di ba?
(:
March 17th, 2007 at 10:32 pm
Same here. The house covered with vine caught my attention! Any more pics of it ? Definitely a place worth visiting man. Still looks unexploited to me which is great
March 18th, 2007 at 6:57 am
The Itbayat people are good looking? Did you get any phone numbers? hahaha. Anyway, an island made of coral reef, huh? That’s a first. I’ve never heard of that before. Fascinating.
March 18th, 2007 at 2:31 pm
woooww… adventure continues… once again interesting pics and story…
March 18th, 2007 at 2:37 pm
Hi, Ferdz! This is an awesome experience. I wish I’m with your travel. Seriously, If you’re open to be bringing more companion when you go back to this place, please count me in. You can drop me a line through my Shoutbox found in my site…
Thank you very much…
March 18th, 2007 at 3:38 pm
i really like the first picture.. you know the view of the cliffs.
and wow what ahouse…. covered with vine.
wow it would be a ncie idea… the book giving outreach. cool.
i also like the “waiting for the sunset” picture… soo heavenly!!
what a nice adventureee!!! wooo
March 18th, 2007 at 7:08 pm
Wow! Look at that vine-covered house!
Kainggit.. Wish I could visit this place too..
March 18th, 2007 at 8:20 pm
I am with dodong! I can’t say no to such a place!
I have no shoutbox but you can always leave a message in my blog!
Maybe time for a career change. What about being a professional guide!
March 18th, 2007 at 9:16 pm
huwaaw!!!!! dulo ng pinas!! astig!!
batanes!! how i wish na makapunta din ako jan…
ganda rin ng sepia.. “waiting for the sunset” cool!
March 18th, 2007 at 10:23 pm
Ang ganda ng lugar. Inggit ako sa yo bro.
I wish that someday I will be able to do what you are doing.
I am curious about the vine-covered house. how do they trim those vines? I know it is easy if the are on the fence but with all sides of a big house. Edward Scissorhands must be there. ha ha ha
March 19th, 2007 at 10:28 am
I’ve never seen a vine covered house before. Wow! Hope you dont mind if I feature this photo in my blog. Let me kow. Thanks
March 19th, 2007 at 11:58 am
i like the starlite shot.
sana naman magawan ng paraan ung illegal fishing na yan.
uy ferdz, inform lang kita, nov 30 to dec 2, 3 day hiking, trekking, and whitewater rafting sa cagayan de oro. sobrang mura lang!
March 19th, 2007 at 1:27 pm
naikot mo na pala ang 3 main islands ng batanes. hahaha, napako ako sa batan. next time, definitely sabtang and itbayat are on my crosshairs . i share your comments on the lack of info which makes exploring the two other islands tricky, although that’s an adventure in itself
March 19th, 2007 at 7:06 pm
hi…nice adventures. Someday, i’ll go to batanes. I’ll just schedule it in the future… and hope It would be for real
March 19th, 2007 at 7:11 pm
nobody could tell it much better than you do ferdz, whenever i read your blog i learn a lot of new things, makes me wanna explore more…
kaya ako haggang pics lang, di ako mgaling magkwento eh…
good job ferdz! God less!
March 19th, 2007 at 7:11 pm
uy God bless yun….
March 19th, 2007 at 8:23 pm
Fantastic entry, Ferdz. That vine-covered house just takes the cake! Amazing!
March 20th, 2007 at 5:36 am
you’re a finalist for TWO categories, dude! I wish you the best of luck. I think you deserve to win for both categories.
March 20th, 2007 at 7:02 am
I tip my hat off to you, Ferdz. You venture to this exotic and faraway places that I can only dream of. But know what? I like this island. Why not organize a tour?
Great photographs! They really beckon me to come. Serious!
March 20th, 2007 at 9:20 am
huy! ferdz! sana manalo ka sa blog awards! balitaan mo kami kung ano mangyayari ha!
March 20th, 2007 at 11:39 am
the place seems so tranquil and people seems really nice… parang ang sarap mamalagi dyan to get away from life’s pretenses…
March 20th, 2007 at 7:15 pm
[...] be shocked if he wins both. I think he deserves every possible award. He easily takes the best pictures and it really seems that he’s the traveler who would venture off the beaten [...]
March 20th, 2007 at 8:07 pm
Congratulations on making it to the Finalists’ list for the Philippine Blog Awards!
I’m doing an email interview about the nominees to further promote the event and the nominees. If you’re interested, please contact me via the contact details in this comment.
Thanks and the best of luck!
March 20th, 2007 at 10:46 pm
… at wala na akong masabi ferdz! super inggit na talaga ako hehe.. i really appreciate your entry for batanes island and many thanks for sharing
.. congratulations for the blog awards ha.. pareho kayo ni iskoo pasok sa finalist
.. blow out naman lol
March 20th, 2007 at 10:47 pm
weeee you’re a finalist! ^^, goodluck!
March 21st, 2007 at 11:35 am
marvelous pictures, as always. so many undiscovered places in our own country!
March 21st, 2007 at 1:06 pm
balik tayo Batanes for the Mt Karoboboan.
Congrats nga pala for being one of the finalist sa Philippine Blog Awards 2007!
March 21st, 2007 at 8:04 pm
gusto ko yung waiting for a sunset. bagay sa mood ko lately. sigh. ang ganda
March 21st, 2007 at 9:10 pm
How can we donate books for that cute library?
March 21st, 2007 at 10:20 pm
Wow! These are spectacular! Which Philippine region is this located?
March 22nd, 2007 at 2:48 am
That is so amazing. Living atop a coral reef I mean.
The vine covered house looks so English countryside. very shabby chic.
I am so loving the “Waiting for Sunset” photo.
And I’m glad to hear the return trip was easier. hehehe… was the girl that vomitted on the return trip as well?
March 22nd, 2007 at 2:59 am
hey, you made it to the Finalists list! Congratulations!
I pray that your blog makes it. There\’s one finalist there that isn\’t exactly a travel blog, hmmmpf!
March 22nd, 2007 at 11:03 am
I am in awe of that vine-covered house! I like.
March 22nd, 2007 at 2:17 pm
Grabe! Congratz Ferdz! Dalawa na kayo ni iskoo na na-congratulate ko for making it to the finals.
Every pic here is amazingly beautiful.
March 22nd, 2007 at 3:47 pm
ang ganda talaga ng batanes, sayang di ko pa nabibisita. nice set pare
March 22nd, 2007 at 7:55 pm
Ang alam ko lang tungkol sa Batanes ay ito yung unang nakaka-experience ng lupit ng bagyo dahil nasa pinaka taas ‘to ng Pilipinas. I don’t know if I’m correct but apart from that, I never realize na kick-ass din pala ang tourism dun. Grabe, pang brochure ang mga entries mo Ferdz.
August 19th, 2007 at 12:10 pm
dios mamajes dimiyu a tatavu.. god bless 2 all…
March 22nd, 2008 at 4:08 pm
good day. this is my hometown and i really appreciate ur writing. u describe things very well without overdoing it. i work here in manila but i go home to relax and enjoy every year. maybe i could help you in some ways concerning itbayat.
March 30th, 2008 at 1:33 am
[...] There is so much to showcase here in my opinion that the scope of the movie is limiting. A lot of possible camera angles and also stories. Just because you have shown an island doesn’t mean you can generalize it as a whole place. In fact a lot of people haven’t even been to the largest of the 3 islands of Batanes which is Itbayat. [...]
August 5th, 2008 at 5:41 pm
Itbayat is my hometowm and where my heart is, I now live in Charlotte NC and I was searching online for pictures of home and I came accross this, I miss it very much! Planning on visiting very soon, looking at the port brought such memories *sigh*
August 5th, 2008 at 5:43 pm
correction: hometown