Quezon: Kiping the Pahiyas Tradition in Lucban

Pahiyas 2009 Eye-less masked mime

Pahiyas 2009 Eye-less mime welcomes visitors

It’s not all about the langgonisa! While I love the Lucban langgonisa as much as its northern variant in Vigan, it was not the only reason I went to Quezon this time of the year. Come mid May, an array of colors spread through out the streets and houses of Lucban. What is usually a sleepy town with cooler weather than its neighboring provinces in Quezon, Lucban is very much alive at this time as droves of people join to celebrate the Pahiyas Festival, a tradition spanning more than five centuries.

Pahiyas 2009 Peppers

Green Pepper Details

Unlike other festivals in the Philippines the tradition of celebrating a good harvest didn’t start from the patron saints but with the anitos during the 1500s. It was only in the 16th century when the Spaniards established its church and influenced the natives into converting to their religion. Bearing their bounties, farmers would regularly bring select produce to the church and have them blessed for another year of bountiful harvest. Seeing that their devotion to the Church patron Saint San Insidro brought another year of bountiful harvest, their faith and devotion intensified.

Pahiyas 2009 glancing Girls

Peering over the wall

The Artsy colorful celebration however didn’t start until 1963,when the Art of Lucban Club organized a trade fair and cultural shows in town. With aims to draw tourists to the province, they held this yearly and every year, it was grander and more colorful to draw more and more people. For the town folks, aside from bringing their harvest out of the door, they thought it would be more meaningful if they decorate the entirety of their houses with it. Around the 70′s, they have called their celebration “Pahiyas” coming from their local word “Payas” which means “to decorate”. And with the blessing from the church, the festival came to be known as the Lucban San Isidro Pahiyas Festival.

Pahiyas 2009 Vegetable Bugs

Vegetable Bugs

Fastforward to this present, the Pahiyas still draws quite a considerable crowd. It was four years ago when I last visited the festival and I thought it was high time I visited again. Thank God from an invitation from fellow Pinoy Writers member, Arlene, I jumped in at the chance to experience the festival again this year. So the evening of the 14th of May, accompanied by a Arlene and Migs, who turned out to be the brother of a person I knew, we headed to Sariaya. Quezon where we’ll stay at the place of another Pinoy Writer member, Nova.

Pahiyas 2009 Viewing from my window

Pahiyas through my window

I like going to this part of the town since the travel fare is cheap. Just hopping on a bus to Lucena, either by Jam or jac liner cost only around P240 for a 4 hour bus ride. But since we’re staying in Sariaya which is an hour away we only paid P190. The next day, we hopped on a bus to Lucena for P17 for 30 minutes then another jampacked jeep to Lucban at P30 for another half hour. Then, a short tricycle ride to the Town University where the walk starts.

Pahiyas 2009 Bag of Details

Rice bags and details

A lot has changed during the past 4 years. I remember a large part of land in front of the school which used to be an open lot. We parked there the last time. But now rows of establishments popped up along the streets from fancy restaurants to sari-sari stores and eateries. 7-11 has even invaded the town. Development has certainly landed.

Pahiyas 2009 House of Hats

A house of hats

Commercialism has also invaded the streets of Lucban. Soda drinks, alcoholic drinks, even cereal drinks and telecom companies have used the festival as a platform to promote their products and services. I know they were doing this before with small booths at the side of the streets but now their large tents and towering props would block the way before visitors can proceed to the houses.

Pahiyas 2009 Mask and Kipings

Mask and kipings

At the town center stands the beautiful church of Lucban. Crowds gather there, bemused by the dancing mime adorned with organic decors and kipings. It was like four years ago, there was a mime as well but dressed differently. We headed left where we started our tour of the houses decorated with kipings and other creative patterns using organic materials. Pahiyas wouldn’t be complete without the kiping.

Pahiyas 2009 Kipings

Lucban kipings in brilliant colors

The Kiping is a leaf-shaped wafer made of rice and comes in different colors. The name Kiping actually came from a name which describes how laborious the process of making one which is “Kipi” or “Kinipi”. It’s a time=consuming process where a heavy object is placed over a dough to squeeze out the water. Then, it is kneaded with desired colors until semi-liquid and poured thinly and evenly over a leaf. This process is repeated depending on the quantity they want to make. Then, they lay it on an a square bamboo big enough to fit all the leaves then cook it in boiling water for ten minutes. It is left to dry overnight. Once dried the next day, they remove the Kiping from the leaves then bundle them together and then place a heavy object on the bundle for six hours to flatten the Kiping.

Pahiyas 2009 House Giant

A Giant’s House

The combination of colors and patterns make for the colorful designs on the houses. Each year each house on Lucban where the parade would pass by would decorate their house and compete for the best prize. However, I noticed that only a few houses really went all out in decorating unlike four years ago that there were really some showstoppers on every block.

Pahiyas 2009 Paper Butterflies and Syringes

Paper Butterflies and Syringes

It’s a sad thing that a lot of houses decorated just for the sake of decorating. Does this also reflect our economic condition that a lot people decided not to spend too much on decorations? But in tight situations like these, creativity also comes to the fore like the use of used syringes to create vines where paper butterflies hang. Woven hats enshrouded the entirety of one house. And there’s even a gigantic robotic farmer.

Pahiyas 2009 Shooting Portraits

Tourists enjoy taking portraits among the decors

Whatever crisis is looming over, the ambiance still feels festive. It never stopped photographers to try to capture the colors of Pahiyas. Even a lone lady traveler equipped with her own compact camera on a tripod didn’t stop her from setting her timer as she run towards the house and have her picture taken with the decors, irregardless of whether someone would ran away with her camera in the opposite direction as she runs towards the house.

Pahiyas 2009 Langonisa Girls

Langonisa Girls

Going to Pahiyas is still a lot of fun despite the creeping commercialism and the effect of financial crisis lessening the number of Kipings hanging from each house. It’s great that even at these times, the people of Lucban still has something to celebrate and show the bounty of their harvest for. It’s counting our blessings that is more important however little these may be. I think that’s the spirit of Pahiyas. And oh yeah, I didn’t forget to buy those langgonisas on our way home.

16 Responses to “Quezon: Kiping the Pahiyas Tradition in Lucban”

  1. missed attending this year’s festivities because of work. sayang. but ok na rin kasi parang andun na rin ako through your photos amigo. love the hues, lalo na yung green peppers and tomato set against a basket and banig. napaka-may-istorya nung dalawang bata sa may longganisa stand, their shyness and innocence shine through. as you noted nga, sayang at medyo nag-scale down ang festivities this year. the economic crunch really must have constrained the residents from going full-blast like in years past but as they say, tuloy pa rin ang palabas, especially that this celebration is about thanksgiving as you noted.

    Reply
  2. After reading your coverage, and the one by Ryan, I really felt that I need to make a trip to Lucban to experience this festival! Great photos btw ;)) do you have one that show how crowded the place is ?

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  3. another excellent post ferdz! though i missed it but again as always, looking at your perspective is really really good. i think it’s also expensive to prepare all those decorations that’s why they change the route every year but im sure the economic crisis has definitely affected it too. i particularly like your the house of hats.

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  4. never been to pahiyas, always mali timing ko :(, good thing merong ferdz na magaling kumuha ng photos dun :), nice work bai!

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  5. Sayang nga Og. Kala ko makakahabol ka dun. Kapansin pansin yung pag scale down ng decorations but still the festive atmosphere is there.

    Thanks Photo Cache! I also think so since it has been observed sin pre-spanish times.

    Hi PKtan! Yep I do have some shots on those but I didn’t put them here. I didn’t shoot as much as i did and focused more the details when I was there :D

    Salamat Arlene! hehe will have to check on that din.

    Thanks Dom, not only is it expensive but also time consuming as well. I hope when the economy settles we can see a grander display next year.

    haha. Thanks Allan!

    Reply
  6. Excellent post, Ferdz. I love the write up and the photos especially those with human elements. I’d like to witness this Pahiyas festival someday…

    Reply
  7. I was in Lucban 3 years ago and really enjoyed it… last year it rained non-stop… and this year I was really disappointed… not much creativity anymore… it is still amazing but the “WOW” effect is DEFINITELY gone…
    I left the place before noon (the crowd of tourists was becoming unbearable for me) … I went to Sariaya instead… no tourist at all, almost no photographers… and I enjoyed every minute of it… the fiesta ends in a friendly riot…
    Sariaya is a great alternative to Lucban. It is the same day… and it has still the “spirit” !

    A stupid analogy but like Boracay, Lucban is victim of its own success.

    Reply
  8. Thanks Dodong! Pahiyas is still worth the visit especially if it’s your first time going there.

    I agree with you Sidney! It’s becoming more commercialized and no longer had the “Wow” factor I had when I first went there. But I think it may also have to do with the economy as well. I saw a bit of the Ariaya celebration and it looks fun!

    Reply
  9. I love the photos especially the first one. I like its colors and also the composition.

    :D

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  10. I thought that “kiping” word in the title was a typo….hehe. Btw, those butterflies and syringes were pretty creative.

    Reply
  11. WOW!! your photos are amazing … galing, galing, galing!!!!!!!!! Thanks for posting them! I’d double all these compliments … only if you’d please check your grammmar in your blog entries. sayang. pero just the same, galing mo!

    Reply
  12. yess! na -excite ako lalo, lage ko kaseng nami-miss to kase lage ako my pasok. hehe uhmm..Ferdz, I thought sabe nila yung bus is Sta.Cruz then jeep to Lucban, pero I read here pede sumakay nlng ng Lucena bus? thnx! =)

    Reply

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