Laos: The Crowds and the Setting Sun at Phu Si Hills Luang Prabang
I remember Laura, the petite English girl I met down south of Laos in Wat Phu Champasak, telling me that the sunset at Phu Si Hills is really beautiful and I shouldn’t miss it. So I made sure before 4pm, I made my way to Phu Si Hills, a 100-meter high hill found at the center of town along the main roads. There are several temples on and at the slopes of the hill. It’s also a popular place for the tourist to catch that famous Luang Prabang setting sun.
The jump off to the climb of Phu Si Hills is just across the Royal Palace Museum. There is an entrance fee of 20,000 Kip to climb up. The climb up the concrete stairs is easy since the hill isn’t that high, I even found kids there climbing. Shortly I reached the summit and found a crowd of people there. I think I underestimated the time and should have been there earlier.
The temple that stands at the summit is the 24m-high That Chomsi. Believed to be built in 1804, it was recently restored in 1914. The temple is very visible at any ground level of Luang Prabang. I can clearly see it from the eastern part of the the town. It was said that during mid-April, the Lao New Year festival procession starts from here.
The summit indeed has a wonderful views of the east and west side of Luang Prabang. You could see mountains surrounding the town. On the West side is the mighty Mekong River while on the East side runs the Nam Khan River. On the west side of That Chomsi there are stairs going down leading to a cave temple. I didn’t bother to go down since the sun was setting low fast.
Clearly, most tourist have the same thing in mind – to capture the sunset from the hill. Most of the good spots are taken. Some people even sleeping or sitting on the spot while waiting for the sunset. Cameras and tripods positioned. If I wanted a good spot I should have come here earlier. It reminded me of Phnom Bakheng in Angkor Archaeological Park where most tourist would flock to catch the sunset.
The crowd actually annoyed me since some photographers would go to all lengths to get a good spot. Some even climbed to the edge of the rocks at the summit just to get a good view ahead of the others. I don’t think a shot like that is worth dying for. As the sun started descending, the crowd melded in making it hard to move and then some people started blocking my views. It was annoying and thought it wasn’t worth it anymore. Just took a few shots with a telephoto lens and left the scene.
I climbed down from the summit and found myself on the lower slopes where there are only a few people. I noticed that the sun didn’t go down behind the mountains. Probably some clouds blocking the view. Thank god I didn’t stay there. Shortly people came pouring down and I let them go first while I enjoy my time at the lower slopes. When I reached the street, I was surprised to see the road blocked with numerous red-roofed open tents. It’s time for the Night Market.
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Tags: Laos, Luang Prabang, Northern Laos, People, Temples, UNESCO, Wats
















































June 4th, 2009 at 1:18 am
I’m sure that the sunsets there are one of the come ons for tourists, it’s free and spectacular, what more could a tourist ask for?
June 4th, 2009 at 8:26 am
definitely one of the best sunset pics i have ever seen. napaka-subdued ng colors. great job again ferdz.
June 4th, 2009 at 10:22 am
now im in love with luang prabang. it’s a big town as seen the top. but what’s good is i dont see much of the modern structures. hoping to see it one day when it’s still as beautiful as that. the hike is really worth it.
June 4th, 2009 at 10:50 am
Wow I love the sunset pic, I just made the first pic my wallpaper. Great shot Ferdz!
June 4th, 2009 at 10:54 am
feel like ive been to Laos…
thanks for bringing the world closer to us.
definitely a web tour.
June 4th, 2009 at 6:57 pm
When you have to fight your way to get a good shot at anything or anybody, count me out. That’s probably why I will never rise beyond the level of mediocrity when it comes to photography LOL.
June 5th, 2009 at 9:26 am
If i know, you still got the best shot among them! How i wish i can get a shot like above. I remember Phnom Bakheng which you mentioned, and we were a bit annoyed also. The funny side is when it’s about time for the nice sunset rays, the clouds did not go away, so three of us laughed so loud. We told our Cambodian friend to better come see the famous Manila sunset. hehe.
June 5th, 2009 at 10:35 am
the sunset shots are really, really nice, my friend. but i do agree with you, sometimes, you just have to stop and ask yourself if the shot is worth risking life and limb for. anyway, very interesting place phu si hills is. will include this in my mental locker just in case i get lucky and visit laos in the future. thanks for sharing
June 5th, 2009 at 10:40 pm
breathtaking…
June 5th, 2009 at 10:48 pm
Hi Photo Cache! True Sunsets are what tourist sought after when on a destination, but here in Laos, there are other spots less crowded than up here in Phu Si Hills. Still I love the views there.
Many thanks Oman!
That’s true Dom! Since Luang Prabang is a UNESCO heritage site, they prohibit any structures that doesn’t comply with the surrounding architecture. Which is what I like as well.
Wow! Thanks Lyanne!
haha. I wouldn’t try to fight my way as well BertN. I guess you just have to look into a different angle people there don’t normally see.
Thanks Andrea, I hope that’s the case. Funny experience there in Cambodia.
Despite the crowds Og, Phu Si Hills is still worth a visit to get a good view of Luang Prabang.
Thanks Bings.
June 6th, 2009 at 5:16 am
loving the first photo man. =)
June 6th, 2009 at 8:35 am
Great pictures… but I hate tourists!
June 6th, 2009 at 10:55 am
inggit talaga ko sa work mo ferdz, hehehe… the first and last shots are great…
June 6th, 2009 at 9:15 pm
Nice photos, as usual!! I dont know how you managed to make those photos with loads of tourists nice–I couldnt take nice scenic photo when I was in Angkor Wat because everywhere I turned I saw tourists milling around, hay. As if hindi din ako tourist. Hehe.
June 6th, 2009 at 10:36 pm
I love sunset photos the most. They’re awesome…
June 7th, 2009 at 9:16 pm
Thanks Pao!
Me too Sidney!
haha. Thanks Lino! But this is a personal travel.
Nice seeing you here again Gypsy! I used a telephoto so my field of view would be farther than the nearby tourist
Thanks Dodong! Sunsets are also a favorite
June 11th, 2009 at 12:11 am
[...] street was full of open red and blue tents when I got down from climbing Phu Si Hills. It would seem that come dusk, the whole stretch of Th Sisavangvong is closed from vehicle traffic [...]
June 18th, 2009 at 12:04 am
[...] the Buddhist faith here in Laos. Shortly I bid my good bye and went to Th Kingkitsarat road behind Phu Si Hills that ran along side Nam Khan [...]
July 23rd, 2009 at 12:16 am
[...] Filters to fix his sunset shots exposure. We both agree that we hated the crowds at the summit of Phu Si Hills. People are flocking to get the sunset from that spot but I think the sunset below here at the [...]
August 20th, 2009 at 12:04 am
[...] The Crowds and the Setting Sun at Phu Si Hills Luang Prabang [...]
October 3rd, 2009 at 10:03 pm
Hi there Ferdz,
Great posts and pics about Chomsi Hill. I was there myself but the weather wasn’t too good so it ended up as an average sunset. I however hope you do not mine that I have linked your post to mine showing that you had an excellent sunset on your visit to LP.
Regards,
David
Malaysia-Asia.my