Transit: Manila to Puraran Beach Baras Catanduanes
Jeeps bound for Baras and Virac
Aside from Batanes, the other island usually battered by the storms is Catanduanes. Found in the south-eastern part of Luzon, it is usually the first path typhoons go through during the Philippines’ wet seasons. For that reason, the island earned the moniker as the “Land of the Howling Winds.” While it seemed illogical to visit the island during the typhoon season, it didn’t stop me from discovering the island shaped by the storms.
Catanduanes Igang "Chocolate-Hills" like karst
There was a storm brewing at the north eastern side of Luzon at the day of my flight. Heavy rains in Manila led me to worry if my early Cebu Pacific flight to Virac would be canceled. But despite the downpour, operations seem to be normal and boarding went on time. Our ATR plane soared through the clouds with several turbulence here and there. It was supposed to be an hour and 10 minutes flight but it seemed faster than I thought. From my window, as we started to land, I could see the unique topography of Southern Catanduanes. I was amused when I saw Chocolate Hills-like karst formations parading toward the shores.
CEB at Virac Airport
It was a surprise to see the how well made Virac Airport is. Small but very good for a provincial capitol standards. Just outside is a simple eatery perfect for waiting passengers. I waited there for a while sipping on a hot cup of Milo and nibbling on a ham and egg sandwich, trying to extend its life while I await for my friend’s Zest Air flight to come in within an hour.
Baras Terminal and Municipal
The Zest Air flight was delayed for half an hour but we were still able to catch a jeep to Baras from Virac proper which leaves at 10am. We took a tricycle (the usual transpo) coming from the airport to town for P 40 pesos. It took only a few minutes to get to town and things just fell into place as a large jeep bound for Baras went by. Our tricycle driver hailed the jeep and we immediately got into it. The jeep was huge, clearly designed to take in cargo and drive through rough roads.
View of Puraran Beach as we descend the road
It took almost an hour coming from the coastal road and up the winding rough paths once we got past the town of Bato. The scenery was equally impressive. The place does remind me a little of Batanes, the rugged landscape and windswept hills but with a unique quality of its own. We alighted in the Municipality of Baras where we had to transfer to a tricycle to head to Puraran Beach. We paid P35 each for the jeep transfer.
Spartan cottages at Puraran Majestic Resort
A tricycle offered to take us to Puraran for P150. I had to ask the caretaker of Puraran’s Majestic Resort if it was the right price which she confirmed was the standard fare for a whole tricycle service. P35 for each person if they’ll wait for the tricycle to get full. From Baras terminal it was an alternating rough and cemented road which slopes up and down. It took around 15-20 minutes ride for that 3km distance. So imagine the conditions of the road. Now I’m not surprised why the fare is such.
Twin bedroom cottages at Puraran Majestic Resort
From the main road, the tricycle turned right to a descending winding road. We could see the beach as we go lower and our excitement grew higher. Pardon the cliche but it was a picture perfect view from that high vantage point. And once we got down to the actual beach it was a lot better than I had expected. Karst formations spiking out the seashore, menacingly beautiful surfs, and nicely grained beach makes up the whole Puraran Beach.
Puraran Majestic Resort Cottage View
We had reservations at Majestic Beach Resort there. It has a few spartan cottages with clean concrete bathrooms and it’s only a few steps from the beach. Another welcome surprise was that most guests there were foreigners: 3-4 Australian surfers, a German and lone Japanese lady wanting to learn to surf. Our late lunch of Chicken Adobo and Lumpia was so good it could easily contend with some of the best Filipino restaurants in the city. The adobo has a Bicolano/Catanduanes twist of adding Gata (Coconut Milk) and lemon. The trip here from what I’ve seen so far is definitely worth facing the path of the storm head on.
Lunch of Adobo and Lumpia at Puraran Majestic Resort
Essentials:
There are flights from Manila to Virac from Cebu Pacific, Zest Air and PAL Express
Jeeps to Baras from Virac Terminal leave twice in the morning and twice in the afternoon (except weekends which only has 1 trip in the afternoon). Travel time is approximately 1 hour with a fare of P35
A special trip for tricycles to Puraran cost P150, but if you wait for it to fill in it’s P35 for each passenger. Travel time is approximately 20 minutes.
For Accommodations there’s Majestic Puraran Resort (0919.5581460 or 0927.6282251), Puting Baybay Resort (0910.3145482) and Puraran Beach House (0917.8041020 or 0920.3199742)
At the time of this writing Globe is the only cellphone signal available at the site.
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Tuesday, September 22nd, 2009 at 9:00 am 
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September 22nd, 2009 at 11:12 am
hey, that is my place. i own a house there next to the double story resort. i was hoping the road is paved by now because they were working on it a year ago. and judging from your narration, there hasn’t been any improvements.
September 22nd, 2009 at 1:01 pm
parang gusto ko yong cloud9 hehehe… papalapit ka na sa samar ah..
kelan ba ang schedule?
September 22nd, 2009 at 5:40 pm
the twin bedroom cottage photo reminds me of the house of my grandmother’s mother in Cebu when she was still alive. masarap ang kawayan kasi malamig, diba?
September 22nd, 2009 at 9:05 pm
the beach looks great ferdz! i wish i too had a shot of mairaira from that perspective. i just learned about this “ferdz eye view” hehehe… astig!
September 22nd, 2009 at 9:27 pm
Wow! Glad to know you’re from Puraran, Belle. Some of the roads are paved and some are stil being paved. The road descending to the beach is completely paved
Haha ok din itong Majestics Den though di ko pa nakita yung Cloud9 sa Siargao. Haha. Not sure, baka next year when the weather is good.
Nice ano Barrycade? Very Rural. Presko yung cottage mas lalo na kung bukas lahat ng bintana
Haha. That “Ferdz Eye View” was born from Imugan, Dom. The beack looks a lot better when you’re on it
September 23rd, 2009 at 12:50 am
Hi Ferdz, got your link from Belle promoting this post via FB. And those chocolate-hills like formation are indeed one of the beautiful sight while on the aerie arriving Virac Airport. I live in Cantanduanes but never been to Puraran pero ikaw nakapunta na, so unfair.
September 23rd, 2009 at 1:59 am
I like this place, the cottage is so simple and yet looks comfortable and its close to the water.
September 23rd, 2009 at 7:46 am
Memorable lahat pati yung adobo with gata with Cloud 9 as dessert. Come to think of it, ayos yung Cloud 9 kasi it reminds surfers of the Cloud 9 surf
Good luck nga pala on your Nuffnang nomination.
September 23rd, 2009 at 11:32 am
Ooo chocolate hills
Hope to visit that place when I go to Cebu next month 
September 30th, 2009 at 11:12 am
[...] Settling-in at Majestics Puraran Resort after our arrival from Manila we decided to check out the beach. Puraran Beach is bounded by high cliffs and rocks. The beach is not powdery but finely grained still. It has uneven slopes now which was caused by recent flood waters from the uplands reaching the beach, said Aireen, whose family runs the Majestic Resort. She said the mayor has plans to bring in a bulldozer to even out the beach again. [...]
October 24th, 2009 at 8:29 pm
here’s an interactive map of catanduanes (partial areas), works best with a GE plug-in in your browser.
November 14th, 2009 at 8:31 am
[...] Transit: Manila to Puraran Beach Baras Catanduanes [...]