Zambales: Wonders of Nagsasa Cove

A man deep in thought at the rocky shores of Nagsasa during sunset

A man deep in thought at the rocky shores of Nagsasa during sunset

Sometimes I just want to be selfish and keep a place to myself, I thought while I was gently swaying on a hammock, under the trees, with refreshing breeze blowing, view of blinding white sands, deep blue horizon and birds enthusiastically in concert above me. But then again, people will always find a way to discover a place like this Nagsasa Cove in San Antonio Zambales. And once word gets out, people would flock here. Just the thought of this quiet cove turning into another crowded tent city beach makes me cringe. I know it’ll be inevitable but for now I’ll make sure I enjoy and every minute I’m here.

Natural Sandline patterns morning at Nagsasa

Natural Sand line patterns morning at Nagsasa

Somehow, I felt partially to blame about Anawangin and Capones Island sheer popularity nowadays when I wrote about it back in 2007. I think it was one of the first few to write-ups about the place and admittedly until now, it’s one of my top posts. I never went back there since then and it pains me to hear that it has become one hell of a tent city especially on weekends. I was glad to share this place but I was dismayed on how people treated the cove. News of accidents were alarming, increasing left over trash and there are now areas with barb wires.

Growing tent city

The growing tent city and karaoke blaring part of the cove

Then I’ve heard of Nagsasa Cove. With Anawangin getting too crowded, people would look further for a quieter place. The first time I’ve read about Nagsasa Cove is from a fellow traveler Allan of Lantaw who was one of the first few to “hesitantly” write about and capture its tranquil landscape back in 2009. Mountaineers and Nature trippers have been enjoying these coves for years after the Pinatubo eruption which contributed to it’s white sand beaches but kept it as a whispered secret to a few. I remember boatmen doesn’t even want people to write about it then. I knew when I saw those Nagsasa Photos, that I’m bound to visit this place sooner or later.

Mang Ador's Cove Camp Grounds

Mang Ador's Cove Camp Grounds

It took me almost four years to find myself back in Pundakit Zambales. Immediately I was astounded on how bustling and developed the town has become on this once sleepy fishing town. San Antonio capitol looks good and new, Pundakit has a nice plaza and a number of new resorts have popped up by this beach. This fishing village has totally been converted to one tourist hot spot. Large billboards boasting Anawangin and Capones Island are positioned to greet visitors and tour operators with boat rentals have also cropped up.

The beautiful stretch of white sand beach at Nagsasa Cove

The beautiful stretch of white sand beach at Nagsasa Cove

Allan, Oggie and I took the seas in pitch black darkness to be able to reach Nagsasa Cove at first light. Aside from our powerful beam lights, playful luminescent plankton clung to our outrigger boat as we sail through the waves and chilly morning wind. There was a gazillion stars above our heads with Venus strongly outshining the rest of them all. Her luminousness draped our ocean path as if guiding our way to the cove. Sea water splashed unto us as we enter the cove bay and the winds turned to a freezing chill as we approach the shore. Manong Ador, the cove caretaker was there to greet us. We finally reached Nagsasa Cove.

A Child Spearfisher with his day's catch

A Child Spearfisher with his day's catch for their family's meal

It is at least twice as big as Anawangin and a river divides the cove in half. There are now two sides of Nagsasa Cove in just a short span of time. Mang Ador’s part of the cove is quiet, clean, and has a close to nature feel. While the other side is becoming an unpleasant tent city. While exploring the river side on the opposite cove that morning, the natural hymn of nature was shattered by the blaring music from a generator powered karaoke machine. It seems that some Aetas sold their land rights to a foreigner who are now threatening to build concrete structures on their side of the cove. It’s a disheartening development and I went back to Mang Ador’s Cove where the noise doesn’t stretch as far.

A higher vantage point of the cove

A higher vantage point of the cove

Time passed quickly that morning and I was on the hammock doing nothing but sleep after a short exploration of the area. We were mostly catching up on lost Zzz and didn’t realize it was almost noon. Our two other companions, Raize and Em arrived and caught up with us for lunch.

Young fishermen tending their nets

Young fishermen tending their nets

Afternoons were spent exploring the nearby areas of the cove. Sharing shooting tips and capturing the tranquility of the cove till sunset. Despite droves of boats heading to the other side of the cove, ours remain relaxed and comfortably spaced from the few groups who chose this side. We got time to take a dip and refresh by the shallow river then shoot scenes of fishermen tending nets, climbing a low cliff for a view of the cove then capturing the wondrous rugged seascape under the fiery sunset light.

The fiery sunset sky at Nagsasa

The fiery sunset sky at Nagsasa

I realized how I missed camping out that night. I guess it’s the sharing of chores, or cooking together under the not so bright headlamps and sharing stories over dinner and snacks makes it all worth while. I took the hammock again to sleep completely covered with my malong, arafat and titanium jacket. It was still freezing cold with the wind chill blowing from the cove to the sea that night. I was expecting the summer heat but it felt like I was in Baguio with this weather. I snugged in and got comfortable with an earth-pad behind my back. I was able to catch some sleep and be ready for another exciting day at Nagasasa.

The rugged shores of Nagsasa

The rugged shores of Nagsasa

Tags: Beaches, Coves, Nagsasa, Nature, Road Trip, San Antonio, Zambales

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32 Comments on

“Zambales: Wonders of Nagsasa Cove”

  • nice post. we went to nagsasa sometime in october 2010. I wonder if you also went to the nagsasa falls? The falls is about 20 meters high and the water is very clear.

    • Hi Rey! We went to this falls an hour away but it’s the dry season. Will talk about the outback on the next part :D

  • sa tingin ko din isa ka tlga sa me kasalanan kung baket naging tourist-stricken ang Anawangin! haha when you search it in Google, post mu tatambad sa page 1, yun din ata unag post mu na nabasa ko at simula noon, naging follower na ako. :) Wish ko din na d xa maging tulad ng Anawangin. :(

    • Haha thanks Gael! I have to admit din that posts made this blog popular din kasi maganda ang Anawangin and madaling puntahan. I just wish Nagsasa won’t turn out like Anawangin soon.

  • Great post :) I love the 2nd pic and the sunset pics. So breathtaking.

    Partially to blame because of letting people know how amazing Anawangin is (well… and all the other places in the Phils you blog about)?

    I don’t think so. You’ve done nothing but inspire other folks (esp me) to travel & explore our country. I hope the tour operators (I see so many posts on FB) aren’t part of the reason why nagiging ‘tent city’ na ang Anawangin. Sana inaalagaan nila, baka next time magsisi sila wala na silang pupuntahan.

    Mahunting nga yung nag lagay ng videoke sa Anawangin. Didn’t believe my colleagues when they said may videoke na dun. Kala ko joke lang. Grrr. :-(

    • You have a point there KY. I guess even if I write about the place it’s up to the locals to regulate and take care of it. So true it’s the job of the tour operators din. I also noticed from Pundakit, there are no means of registering people who visit these coves or even Capones Island. I think they need to do this now and gather data on their visitors. :D

  • kasalanan niyo pala kaya naging tourist attraction yan. haha. pero what’s impt now is to maintain it and it’s up to the local authorities to keep it pristine.

    love that photo with the curved shore. it’s natural pala. kala ko camera trick eh. hehe

    • Haha! Yep Reena, it’s a natural curve where the river and the sea meets.

  • Nice photos Sir Ferdz. Camp kami dito sa May:)

    • Thanks for dropping by, I’m sure you’ll enjoy your time there :)

  • I agree with Gael :) Your Anawangin post was also the one that had inspired me to blog. I was so amazed by it I even thought it wasn’t here in the Philippines,

    • Thanks Claire! I’m glad to know that :D

  • that’s the dilemma you are faced when you discover paradise. but i’d hate to see people abuse nature.

    • Hi Photo Cache! It’s always heartbreaking to see people abuse nature

  • Been living in Zambales since a kid (Olongapo) but I didn’t know that there’s a place as beautiful as this…after the Pinatubo erruption thought I couldn’t see one nicer place as this..thanks Ferdz the pictures are awesome, did you use the Olympus pen here?..miss home.

    • It’s surprising what you sometimes find in your neighborhood. I used an Olympus E-5 DSLR here :D

  • Hey great find! Looks like a great place to camp. What other activities can you do aside from karaoke? Can campers go fishing?

    • Hi Grace! I wouldn’t like karaoke to be a permanent part there though. Explore, hike around mountains, yes you can do fishing as well or simply commune with nature :)

  • lol@gael: kasalanan talaga ni ferdz ang Anawangin! haha.
    yeah, i also stumbled upon this site when I was researching for tips on Anawangin.

    still haven’t been able to capture the same effect as the last two photos, may babalikan pa rin ako sa Nagsasa. hehe

    • Haha! You can still practice doing that effect even in Cebu Ed, pero nice din kung sa Nagsasa mo gawin ulit hehe :D

  • ang gaganda ng photos. I’m looking forward to visit the place one of these days..

  • [...] resembles these landscapes, Nagsasa Zambales is definitely one of them. Nagsasa is more than its beautiful cove, while we explored deeper along the river, I can’t help but feel elated with the scenery I’m [...]

  • Great shots as usual Ferdz. I’ve been reading your blog since 2007. :)

    I’ve been to Nagsasa Feb of 2010, stayed on Mang Ador’s side of the cove and it really wowed me. I’m just sad to hear that the Aetas sold part of their lands. Hope the place doesn’t get too commercialized atleast. :(

  • [...] The cove itself is spectacular, according to Ferdz. Hike around a bit however, and you’ll encounter even more natural beauty. That’s exactly where, based on Decena’s pictures, a great epic should be filmed. Calling all big studios worldwide! [...]

  • nice article ferdz…i’m planning to go to Nagsasa Cove too soon…naaalala ko tuloy yun anawangin natin ikaw yun huling dumating kc late nagising.how time flies, 2007 pala yun waaa…i hope Nagsasa Cove will not be like Anawangin’s Tent City =(

  • hi po..mas mganda din mag trek sa falls mga 1hour po papunta dun…boatman po ako if you need my srvces u can contct me anytime…09108162974

  • I love your pics… My family is planning to go to zambales. And I mentioned to them Nagsasa Cove. Since my friends will go to Anawangin 2wks after. Sana matuloy (fingers crossed)

    • Thanks Leslie! I hope your plan to go to Nagsasa would push through :)

  • [...] the first quarter. I did have some personal northern sojourns with friends like the beach escape in Nagsasa Cove and then joining a Columbia Trail Run in Baguio. Bantakay Falls [...]

  • Hi! I’m interested in going here and I’d definitely want to stay in this side of the cove away from the kareoke. Did you have to contact someone specifically to make sure that you end up here and away from the noise? Much thanks in advance!

    • Hi Sam, no need, just tell them where which part of the beach you would want to go.

  • Thank you!

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Ferdz is a Backpack Photographer and Adventure Traveler based in the Philippines. Ironwulf.net: En Route is a travel blog accounting his adventures travels, travel and lifestyle photography. It's all about the journey and experience.

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