Isla Bisikleta: Bikepacking Around the Happy Island of Catanduanes

Another month, another island to explore for tourism onboard a bike. After the kick-off of the maiden Philippi...

Another month, another island to explore for tourism onboard a bike.

After the kick-off of the maiden Philippine Cyclo Tourism project in Marinduque by the Tourism Promotions Board (TPB) just months ago, we now head off to Catanduanes, the happy island that used to carry the moniker, land of the howling winds. This time, it’s for the launch of the Happy Island Bikepacking Adventure in mid-July, organized by the TPB in partnership with the Catanduanes Tourism Promotions, and in cooperation with the National Bicycle Organization, Maru Bikes (Starbike), Island Escapes Travel and Tours.

Why Choose Catanduanes as a Cycling Destination

The choice of Catanduanes as the next featured destination shares the same reasons as that of Marinduque. Think of dramatic coastline highways, breathtaking ocean views, challenging mountain terrain, beautiful waterfalls, great surfing areas, long and scenic provincial roads, and relatively light traffic outside the capital, Virac. The province definitely has the attributes to vie for the title of best cycling destination in the Philippines in addition to a taste and culture of Bicol from the food, heritage and crafts.

Why the Focus on Bicycle Tourism

Traditional tourism has always focused on the question “Where should tourists go?” Cyclo tourism aims to change that to “How should a tourist experience a destination?”

Traditional tourism looks like: Airport —> Hotel —> Tourist Spots —> Restaurants —> Hotel. Cyclo Tourism, on the other hand, appears more like this: Airport —> Small cafes —> Local cottage industries —> Local markets —> Heritage sites —> Beaches —> Farms —> Viewpoints —> Homestays/ Camping grounds —> Local restaurants.

Let’s also add that at a time of soaring gas prices, Bicycle Tourism just makes more sense economically and ecologically. The Cyclo Tourism experience is more immersive, as traveling at the speed of a bike enables the tourist to have a truly local, un-hurried on-ground experience. It’s also hard to ignore the health benefits that biking offers to the tourist who’s rewarded with plenty of biking challenges to suit riders of different skill levels: road cycling, gravel riding, and mountain biking.

Day 1: Kicking Off Our Island Cycling Adventure in Virac

Our starting point is, of course, the capital of Virac. As part of a group of avid bike enthusiasts invited to participate in the launch event, we made a brief stop at the provincial capitol and also at Starbike, where our loaner Maru Kaze bikes are parked.

Tourists can now book directly with Starbike for bicycle rental packages while foreign tourists from outside Catanduanes can book rentals through their travel agency. Rental price is P500 per day and covers the use of the bike and a safety helmet. Add-ons such as the use of a string back and cycling bottle can be availed at an additional P300. Other package options: Half- and whole day rentals, and add-ons such as a tour guide and meals for an additional P1,000 to P1,500.

Afterwards, we crossed over to Panganiban to sample its renowned mudcrabs called kinis and ogle at the abaca-cotton blend products of the Weavers’ Association. Home for the first night is Rakdell Inn for a well-deserved dinner and rest to prepare for the ride ahead.

Day 2: Riding Out to Bato and Baras

After our assembly at the Provincial Capitol, we head off to Bato on smooth roads that meander along the coast and are free of traffic in the early hours of the morning. There are plenty of incredible views — quaint fishing villages to the right and Mount Lantad (Mt. Pinagkaayonan to the locals) looming over us as we approach the municipality of Bato.

First stop is the Bato Bridge along the Bato-Baras Road, and visiting the St. John the Baptist church built between 1830 and 1880, making it the oldest coral-stone church in the province.

I took note of the wide promenade while riding away from the church, which was not there during my last visit in 2018. It turns out to have been built during the pandemic, to accommodate outdoor dining and food sellers.

The next segment took a bit longer, headed to a heritage site, the Holy Cross of Batalay Shrine. It is a pilgrimage site that marks the spot where Christianity was introduced to the island way back in 1576. The shrine features a sacred cross, a miraculous healing spring, and the resting place of the Augustinian missionary Fray Diego de Herrera, who was a passenger aboard the Espiritu Santo galleon from Acapulco. The galleon encountered a violent storm and was shipwrecked in Batalay.

From the shrine, it was a series of undulating terrain descending and ascending the smooth, paved roads with a wonderful view of the calm sea, headed to Sakahon Beach for lunch and a brief respite.

The sunny weather gave way to overcast conditions by the time we rode out to our next stop, the Buenavista Radar Station. It was providential, as it turned out, as my loaner Maru Kaze bike had some mechanical issues and I was also experiencing episodes of leg cramping.

The final destination of Day 2 is Puraran Beach, always a must-stop destination on the island and for very good reasons - the golden sand, clear waves, and intact coral reefs. It’s also a popular surfing spot. Our home for the night is a long-time institution in Catanduanes, the Majestic Puraran, with a lovely view of the Pacific Ocean.

The night sky was clear and inviting for shooting the Milky Way after dinner. As we let our bikes and bodies rest, we looked back at a wonderful day of riding and looked forward to another great day of biking tomorrow.

DAY 3: To Binurong Point and Tampad Beach

My role shifted from being a rider to spectator on the second day of the ride. Since my calves were still feeling soreness and tightness, I didn’t want to risk further injury since I’m still teaching yoga after the trip. I decided to cover my fellow riders this time.

We had a wonderful sunrise during our breakfast at Puraran Majestic. Filled up and ready for the ride ahead, the bikers started early to tackle to steep winding inclines from the beach up to the main road to head to Binurong Point almost 4km away.

I met up with the bikers at the beach jump-off to Binurong Point. The site entails a little hike to reach a scenic grassland and hills akin to Batanes. The site sits on a private land but the owners decided to open it up with help from the local tourism body in 2015 to generate jobs for the locals and share the beauty of the location. Binurong is a “healing” places as Binurungan means “heal”. Local fishers also refers to Binurong as “to dry” as they dry their fishes at this wide expanse of grassland.

The last stretch of the ride is 43km back to Virac, ending at Tampad Beach. The bikers had to ride through a series of downpour but pedaled through the rain to finally reach this beautiful cove of a beach. Protected by majestic karsts formations on both sides, the beach has become a favorite nesting ground for turtles. One of the rock faces also became popular as it resembles the profile of Jesus. Tampad Beach is only open for day trippers since there are no overnight accommodations here, only cottages, but there are restrooms onsite. Entrance fee is P20 for locals and P30 for non-residents.

As the finish line for this bikepacking tour, ride participants were treated to a hearty lunch and some freebies. Some also went for a swim in the gentle and clear waters of the beach - a fitting and refreshing conclusion to two days of thrilling and challenging ride for the event.

Our group then headed to the nearby Twin Rocks Resort for some well-deserved R\&R before our flight back to Manila the next day.

Some journeys stay with you long after the ride ends. The Catanduanes Cyclo Tourism launch was one of them. A weekend of scenic roads, warm encounters, wonderful eats, and great moments that will fuel us for wherever our next adventure leads.

Watch our Isla Bisikleta adventure in YouTUbe Part 1

Bike Rental Packages

• Bike rental with use of safety helmet - P500/day
• Add-ons: Use of string bag and cycling bottle - Additional P300/day
• Tour guide and meals - Additional P1,000 to P1,500
• Options for half and whole day rentals are available.

Biker Notes:

• Entrance fees to the different tourism sites are free of charge.

• Bike rentals are offered in Virac by Starbike Corporation. Fee is P500/day and includes the use of a safety helmet.

• For inquiries, contact the Catanduanes Tourism Office at +63 52 811 3603; message their FB page: Catanduanes Tourism Promotion, or visit them at the 2nd Floor, Provincial Capitol, Rizal Avenue, Virac.