Riding for the Setting Sun at Jimbaran Bay

I wanted to watch the sunset from the beach on my very first day in Bali—and I made sure I did. Already feeling quite confiden...

I wanted to watch the sunset from the beach on my very first day in Bali—and I made sure I did. Already feeling quite confident handling the Honda Scoopy and driving on the left side of the road around my neighborhood, I was ready to venture out onto the major thoroughfares. The plan was to drive to Kedonganan to observe life in this coastal fishing village, then spend the rest of the afternoon at Pantai Kelan to watch the sun dip below the horizon over Jimbaran Bay. But first, I had to navigate the roads to get there.

Kedongan Fish Market

Scooting Through Greater Jimbaran

I set my destination to “Kedonganan Fish Market” on Google Maps, revved the engine, said a silent prayer for safety, and off I went. I had heard and read so much about driving in Bali. Coming from the chaotic, organized madness of Manila traffic, I felt partially prepared for what lay ahead.

Driving at the Jalan Bypass Nguah Rai

The streets in Bali are mostly narrow, two-lane roads. The only wide highway with multiple lanes in the area is Jalan Bypass Ngurah Rai, which connects southern and central Bali to Ngurah Rai International Airport. It was approaching rush hour when I left the hotel, and the density of vehicles was noticeably picking up.

Driving in Bali isn’t about speed; it’s about constant alertness. There are endless unexpected obstructions: pedestrians suddenly crossing, stray dogs darting out, scooters popping out of side streets, or drivers stopping dead in the middle of the road for no apparent reason. If we have our share of kamote (reckless drivers) back in Manila, Bali certainly has its own equivalent. Yet, despite the chaos, driving here didn’t feel as intimidating as I had anticipated. As long as you stay in your lane, remain attentive, and read the flow of the road, it’s easy to merge into the rhythm. Much like back home, drivers give a quick, polite tap on the horn to let you know they are nearby or intending to overtake.

Kedongan Beach

Kedonganan Fishing Village and Beach

Turning left off the main Bypass road brought me on a scenic drive toward the western coast of Kedonganan. An interplay of local homes and family temples lined the streets—a beautiful departure from Manila, with intricate stone carvings, statues, and altars around every corner. I immediately felt that familiar thrill of being somewhere new.

View of the beach from the pier

Jukung (boats) and baskets

When I reached Jalan Pantai Kedonganan, the traffic thinned out. I cruised along, enjoying views of Jimbaran Bay to my left alongside vibrant neighborhood murals and local storefronts. Soon, I arrived at the Kedonganan Fish Market, the largest fresh seafood market in Bali. Arriving in the late afternoon meant the morning’s bustling trade had wound down, making for a relaxed atmosphere. I walked toward the pier, where many locals were spending their afternoon fishing, with rows of motorbikes parked nearby.

Gotong Royong in action at Kedongan

Fisherman tending to his nets

Down on the shore, I noticed a group of fishermen working together to haul their heavy outrigger boats (jukung) higher up the sand as the afternoon tide came in. It reminded me immediately of our Filipino spirit of Bayanihan. Here in Indonesia, this communal practice is known as Gotong Royong—a shared cultural value of mutual aid and community cooperation. Seeing the fishermen shoulder the weight of the heavy wooden boats together on the beach was a moving sight.

The GWK statue

The wide shore of Kedonganan Beach was clean and peaceful, with a few fishermen tending to their nets and only a handful of tourists strolling by. Looking south across the bay, I could see the majestic figure of the Garuda Wisnu Kencana (GWK) monument rising above the limestone cliffs of the Bukit Peninsula. Standing at 122 meters (400 feet) tall, this colossal statue depicts the Hindu god Wisnu (Vishnu) riding his mythic companion, the giant eagle Garuda. It is the tallest statue in Indonesia—taller even than the Statue of Liberty in New York—and one of the most prominent landmarks in the world.

Pantai Kelan Beach

Breakwater and a fisherman

Sunset Plane Spotting at Pantai Kelan

Leaving the market, I drove a short distance further north to Pantai Kelan, a stretch of beach sitting just south of the airport runway. There is a nominal entrance and parking fee of 2,000 IDR (~₱8 PHP). The access road was neatly paved, and the parking area was well-organized. Along the sand sat a row of seafood warungs—ranging from modest local stalls to polished beachfront eateries—all offering front-row views of the bay.

Plane spotting at the beach

A plane on a descent to the runway

I walked further north along the sand toward the breakwater near the airport perimeter, technically entering the Desa Tuban area. The beach was clean, with fine sand and a crowd made up mostly of local families. I sat on the sand, enjoyed a light snack, and watched the sun slowly descend while commercial jets glided low over the water on their final approach to the runway.

Sunset hues at the breakwater

As twilight approached, I moved closer to the breakwater to capture some landscape photos. Without a tripod, I had to get creative to steady my phone, but I made do with what I had. It was a serene moment—slowing down to absorb a sunset from another corner of the world.

Evening at Pantai Kelan Beach

Seafood Dinner at Warung Purnama

The Jimbaran Bay area is legendary for its seafood. Aside from buying fresh catch at the market and paying a local warung to grill it for you, many beachfront restaurants offer pre-set menus (pakets) for individuals and groups.

Some of the most hyped spots recommended by travel influencers were packed with tourists that evening. Instead, I picked a cozy spot nearby that had a comfortable number of diners and landed a table right on the sand: Warung Purnama. I ordered their solo Paket A for 65,000 IDR (~₱230 PHP / $4.20 USD). The feast included grilled fish, grilled prawns, grilled squid, a fresh kangkong (water spinach) dish, steamed rice, house-made sambal, and fresh fruit for dessert. The smoky, savory-sweet marinade used for grilling over coconut husks was incredibly rich and flavorful. I thoroughly enjoyed the meal, the sea breeze, and the unhurried atmosphere.

Seafood Paket A at Warung Purnuma

My ride back to my room at TwoSpaces Living in Bunga Desa was smooth and straightforward, with only a brief pause at a main intersection. I dropped by an Indomaret to grab a few provisions before settling in for the night. I felt grateful to have returned safely from an event-filled first day on two wheels. What a wonderful start to this journey.

Beachside dinner