Batanes | The Dying Heritage of Sumnanga Village in Sabtang Island

Sunset at Duvek Bay There’s a certain excitement on visiting far-flung locations. Maybe the idea of finding authenticity in a remote locatio...

Sunset at Duvek Bay

There’s a certain excitement on visiting far-flung locations. Maybe the idea of finding authenticity in a remote location drives us to go further beyond the tourist trail. Often times we discover gems in seclusion but that is not always the case. Sumnanga Village, the farthest of the Sabtang island villages found at the west side probably has the least tourist footprint on the island. It even took me at least eight years to return to this village despite having been to the island several times already. But sadly it’s another case of tainting my good memories of the place but thankfully there’s redemption in its natural beauty.

Ruins of Atanacio Dapilan’s house

Ruins of a Musician’s Home

My journey west of Sabtang Island continued after my visit at Vuhus Island. Nakanmuan Village was alive already that afternoon with people enjoying the milder weather. It only took a few minutes to reach Sumnanga village. Just at the roadside, before entering the main village, it is easy to miss the home of Atanacio Dapilan, an Ivatan farmer and fisherman who is also the first nationally published kalusan singer and composer. Kalusan is a rowing or farming song, sang in chorus by workers or boatmen. Kalusan is already a faint memory to the locals with only the melody faintly remembered. But with the help from the notations of a rowing song recorded by writer and politician, Noberto Romualdez and the teachers of Sumnanga who were able to record the original lyrics, they were able to piece together a kalusan rowing song.

This small piece of musical history on the island is personally highly interesting. Unfortunately, the home of the composer is still in ruins with nothing by overgrowth of plants inside. It would be interesting to restore and make a tourist center out of it where people can appreciate kulasan and other musical arts in Batanes instead of leaving it as it is.

Tiktiks. Crushing old stones and reselling them for use on modern houses

Attack of the Tik-tiks

I remember Sumnanga Village for its many hanging dried fish, particularly dorado, so plenty like the banderitas during a town fiesta. The place also had the moniker of “Little Hongkong” because of the narrow cobblestone streets it has. My last visit, I saw no dorado or dibang fishes hanging. This, I could understand as the fishing season varies. But noticeable are the modern-concrete houses in the area. My driver Mael parked his tryke near the basketball court and we walked around the village.

The town remains slow and laid-back. I passed by a group of men already having rounds of heavy drinks early in the afternoon. There was an adorable site of a generation of ladies, a toddler in a bike basket, a young girl of probably five pushing the bike from behind and most probably the mom manning the handlebar. The school ground looks nice with a carpet of natural green. Mael pointed me to a wash sink which he says used to be an ancient well. Well its gone now.

Crushing old stones to smaller pieces

This outdoor sink replaces what was once an old well

A local getting comfortable now in their modern house

A lovely scene of a mother and her daughters in a simple joyride in the village

At the village pier

Duvek Bay on the next page…

Going home with a fresh catch

I heard a continues ticking and crumbling rocks. Nearby I saw what I first thought was a construction but it was the other way around. Rocks from old stone houses were being picked out and crushed into smaller pieces to be sold as materials for modern houses. Sold by the sack. No wonder many of the houses here in Sumnanga Village are already modern. I was told that since they are not really a tourist spot, they don’t value these old stone houses anymore and resort to more convenient modern houses. This is a sad reality but the local government could have done better and made an attraction out this town that would eventually generate more livelihood than resorting to tik-tiks.

Calm and quiet Duvek Bay with the imposing Mt Aharung

Redemption at Duvek Bay

As with any place I return to, it is hard not to compare the conditions before. I remember the pathway leading to the beach. The distinguishable rock formation which I call “lion-rock” far off the shore and the looming Mt Aharung overlooking the calm waters of the bay. I say hello to a fisherman crossing our path with his fresh catch. I also noticed the road was recently paved and construction continued on to the direction of the town. We found a pathway to the beach and readied myself to shoot the sunset. Mael found a nice comfortable place by the boat and soon he was snoozing, probably know by now it would take time for me to shoot. I enjoyed the clear gentle waters lapping over my ankles while I was watching the clouds move. The sun would descend behind Vuhus Island across and left a captivating afterglow. I’m still thankful that despite the losing soul of Sabtang’s heritage the natural beauty of Batanes still won me over at the end of the day.

Duvek Bay one of the best places to watch the sunset in Sabtang Island