Benguet | Mt Ulap Eco-Trail: A Trek Through the Clouds

At the Abanao Poaoy of the Mt Ulap Eco-Trail Clouds have always been a thing of fascination. People climb mountains often to see the play of...

At the Abanao Poaoy of the Mt Ulap Eco-Trail

Clouds have always been a thing of fascination. People climb mountains often to see the play of clouds billow across mountain peaks like waves. Dissipating in a dance from nebulous to nothingness. When I heard about the Mt Ulap Eco-Trail which recently opened last October 2015, I was intrigued. The Eco-trail is also known as the Philex Ridge, named after the huge mining company operating in the area. The highest peak, was named Mt Ulap by an engineer named “Lagman” who marked the summit in February 1, 1939. He described that the mountain is perennially a magnet for clouds (which is “ulap” in tagalog). The trail has long been a playground for trail runners from Baguio and Benguet. Now the local government, particularly the Ampucao Tourism Council opened the trail to the public.

Morning hues at Abanao Paoay

The Mt Ulap Eco-Trail

I wanted to catch the sunrise at the peak and taking the public transpo wouldn’t do. We hired a taxi from Baguio and took the 45-minute ride to Ampucao Baranggay Hall which is the registration area. Even at 2:00am there were already people to attend to us there. One by one, guides were coming in to list their names on their log book. There are about 100 registered guides here and about 50 active ones on duty throughout the week. For the guides, the earlier they list their names, the sooner they get to do guide duty. First come first serve. And possibly do another guiding duty for the day to double their income. I’m actually impressed on how organized the Ampucao Tourism Council is. The place is well-kept and documents accounted for. There’s a Php 100 registration fee for each visitor and Php 400 for a guide fee for a group of up to 7 pax.

Clouds rolling over the ridges

Climb to Abanao Paoay

We started our hike at 3:00am and Alex was our lucky guide. The first guide on their list. From the Baranggay Hall we had a 1km walk to the jump-off Tomtombek. Alex calls the walk a warm-up but the steep first paved road ascend was the real warm up. There’s a signage before the dirt trail to give an idea of the major points of the Mt Ulap Eco-trail. From them on, it was a 45-minute assault into the dark pine forest trail. The Baguio and Benguet city lights behind us. Alex is quite knowledgeable of the area and would point us to where Lingayen Gulf of Pangasinan could be seen.

We reached Abanao Paoay by 4:30am. The darkness was enveloped in mist. Our headlamps could only illuminate up to 5 feet in front of us. We decided to wait there for the sunrise. The thick clouds quelled our expectations of a dramatic sunrise. Though the sliver opening through the clouds let us peak through the sun shyly hiding behind it. The light was subtle but soon we were able to see the landscape before us, a wide grassland with picturesque hills. The name aptly describes the place as Abanao means “vast” and Paoay means “grass”. There’s a wide ground for a camp site and also an area they call the rock balancing hill.

Afternoon rains make the plants more vibrant

Descending the hill

Looking back at the peaks of Abanao Paoay

Narrow ridge trail to Gungal

Gungal Rocks and Mt Ulap Summit on the next page…

Doing a tree pose at the iconic Gungal Rock

Nature Trail to Gungal

We started our walk again by 6:00am. From Abanao Paoay, we could see the trail before us. Sloping hills, narrow ridges and amazing views. From here on, the trail was actually more relaxed with gentle ascents. What impressed me more was the flora and fauna I saw. Since there were thunderstorms every morning, I could see an abundant growth of mushrooms. Some edible, some not. There were a few wild berries as well I picked up some on the trail. Then a species of pitcher plant (Sarracenia?) in abundance on the trail. I really love how alive the trail is. Aside from the views, I appreciate the dramatic trees along the trail and even the rocky fields.

We reached Gungal in an hour and a half later. Finally we get to meet other climbers. We’re already halfway the trail by this point says our guide Alex. The other group were already hogging the famous Gungal Rock. A dramatic rock overhang perfect for those daring photo ops. I heard this spot could get really crowded. I’m glad we climbed real early and I had the chance to squeeze in for my photo. The other group climbed from Sta Fe and was going on another way. I am intrigued by that pentagram markings though. I wonder who used it?

The summit hills of Mt Ulap

Summit Hills of Mt Ulap

We continued on our way towards the highest peak of the trail. From here on the clouds was a welcome cover, but we were also concerned that rains may come. I continue to admire the trail, the richness of the greens and bursting saturation of colors from the flowers. Even the details of a tree branch is fascinating. An hour later, we finally climbed the highest point of the Mt Ulap Eco-Trail. It was a scenic hill and I was surprised someone was sweeping the grounds. Clearing of any animal poop on the grassy area. We also met his two companion dogs and gave them treats. We rested on the ground and felt accomplished finally reaching the summit. I decided to practice some of my yoga headstand there and was suprised I still had the energy for it.

Found an edible mushroom on the trail

A species of pitcher plant abundant on the trail

Watch out for these edible wild berries

Dramatic trees on the trail

Finding my balance on this rocky ridge

Trail to Gungal

Exit at Sta Fe and essential info on the next page…

Trail to the summit

Steep Steps to Sta Fe

From the summit, the trail goes all the way down. We were ecstatic to find a sari-sari sore in the area though as it was near the camp site. It was a welcome relief to find a warm cup of coffee and freshly cooked Banana Q stick available. While having snack, I was impressed by the number of birds playing around the nearby trees. I also did notice that the mini store is selling “Shoe Glue”. I guess people have lost the soles of their shoes on this trail.

It was 9:30am already when we left the store and braced ourselves on the trail down. Yes, this was sickly steep. It’s a good thing the guides made it a lot easier by making wooden steps on the trail. Alex jokes that before this, visitors becomes animals walking on all-fours on this trail. I could imagine that if we had started on this route, I would have tired easily. We passed by several rock boulders along the trail as well which houses several burial caves. Unfortunately, they no longer allow access to these caves and are now barricaded to avoid looting.

We’re glad that there’s another rest stop on the descend before the dry creek. We were able to refuel with snacks and drinks. Then continued down towards a small community by the creek, crossing several hanging bridge then exiting to the main road. We made it and completed the whole trail. It took us about 8 hours including the photo ops and stops along the way but it sure felt good to be egged by nature to go on. To continue and see the beauty of the trail. Mt Ulap Eco-trail is one of the best, friendliest and most organized trail I’ve been to. It’s a good model for other local trails to follow.

Fern fields

Essential Info

Mt Ulap Eco-Trail is a breathtaking trail. It has cool pine forest, stunning ridges and healthy vegetation. The trek can take 4-6 hours or more depending on your level of fitness or aim. If you take pictures a lot it can take longer. Some sites consider the trail as easy (3/10) but I consider it on the mid-ground since the initial and final descent (depending on where you start)  can be difficult to some. The mid-way is easy moderately though. I still recommend physical preparation weeks before attempting the whole 6.9km trail. And if you have vertigo or fear of heights, there are knife-edge trails with drops on both ends.

The jump-off to the Mt Ulap Eco-Trail can be done in either Ampucao or Sta Fe. Either way, visitors needed to register and acquire guides at the Ampucao Baranggay Hall.

To get to Ampucao Baranggay Hall, Itogon Benguet:

• By public transpo from Baguio City: Take a jeep heading to Ampucao Baranggay Hall at Lakandula Street near Center Mall (across Jollibee). Trips starts at 6:00am. Fare is Php 31. Travel time is 45 minutes to an hour.
• By Taxi from Baguio City: If you are in a group of 3-4, taxis can be hired from Baguio City. Depending on your haggling skills, rates can be Php 500-700 one way. Travel time is 3-45 minutes.
• By Private Car from Baguio City: Take the Loakan road heading to Balatoc road. Make a right turn for the winding Philex Road. There will be a signage on your left on when to turn for the Ampucao Baranggay Hall. Cars can be parked near the hall.

Notes before the climb:

• Registration is Php 100 per person
• Guides are Php 400 for a group up to 10pax. If camping overnight, guide fee is for 2 days (Php 800)
• There are camp sites at Abanao Paoay and near the summit hill of Mt Ulap
• Treks/Hikes usually starts from 3:00am
• Bring at least 1 liter of water per person and snacks
• If hiking on day time bring sunblock as there are a lot of open trails
• Gungal Rock can be crowded on weekends. Do exercise caution when having photo ops here.
• There are emergency respondents at key areas of the trail.
• Mini stores and souvenir shops are available near the Sta Fe area of the trail

Forest trail

Beautiful tree detail

Puppy the dog enjoying the summit views

Practicing my headstand at the summit

This way to Sta Fe

A sari-sari store near the summit campsite

One of the many birds I spotted

The steepest descent on the trail

I could stay in this house

One of the three hanging bridges we crossed as we exit at Sta Fe