It is not the mountain we conquer but ourselves.
— Sir Edmund Hillary
Mountain climbing sparked my wanderlust early in my independent travel journey. I vividly recall joining a group for a climb up Pico de Loro, clad in heavy cargo shorts and a cotton shirt, trudging towards the summit and questioning my decision. Despite the sore legs and knees, a profound sense of accomplishment and awe washed over me upon reaching the peak. Ever since, the mountains have beckoned like a siren’s call. Climbing has taken me to incredible places; my first international trip was to scale Mt Kota Kinabalu in Sabah, Malaysia.
I climbed other smaller mountains afterward, but I never considered myself a hardcore mountaineer, eventually gravitating more towards landscape, nature, and lifestyle photography.
When the opportunity to climb Mt Apo presented itself—a heartfelt thank you to the Tourism Promotions Board and Davao del Sur Tourism for including me in an assessment climb—it was an offer I couldn’t refuse. This is Mt Apo, a mountain every Filipino mountaineer dreams of summiting. The question lingered: could I still do it? I’m no longer in my peak climbing condition, and underestimating the Philippines’ highest mountain was the last thing I wanted to do.
Mt Apo, the Philippines’ Highest Mountain
Mt Apo stands as the Philippines’ highest peak, soaring to an elevation of 2,954 meters (9,692 ft) above sea level. This active stratovolcano spans a vast 54,974 hectares, its land shared by the municipalities of Davao del Sur, Davao City, and Cotabato. Nestled within the Mt Apo National Park, initially declared in 1936 and re-established under the NIPAS Act of 1992, the national park encompasses a broader area, including surrounding watersheds, forests, geothermal zones, and ecologically critical areas.
The Sacred Grandfather Mountain
This imposing mountain of Mindanao is more than just a peak; it’s a revered presence honored by the tribes inhabiting its slopes, such as the Manobo, Bagobo, Tagabawa, and Kagan. They call the guardian spirit of the mountain “Apo Sandawa,” meaning “grandfather” or “revered elder.”
Mt Apo Climb Requirements & Preparation
Years of climbing and traveling have taught me never to underestimate a mountain, regardless of its perceived difficulty. Nature holds unexpected surprises. So, upon receiving the invitation to climb more than a month in advance, I immediately started a 4–5 week workout program to get into climbing shape—a rather tight timeframe. Beyond the mental and physical preparations, here are the essential climb requirements:
Book with an accredited Travel & Tours Agency
Mt Apo climbs are strictly regulated, with only 150–200 climbers permitted per batch. The Local Government Unit (LGU) coordinates this list with accredited tour agencies, issuing appropriate numbers and IDs at the climb’s commencement. During peak season, checkpoints may be in place, and those not on the official list will be denied further access. Here’s a list of accredited agencies you can contact. For our climb, we were expertly assisted by Apo ni Arman (Majestic Apo).
The advantage of joining tour groups lies in their inclusive packages covering food, guides, and climb logistics. Prices typically range from P7,000 to P15,000, varying based on inclusions and the chosen trail. For more information on accredited tour organizations and climbing Mt Apo via the Kapatagan Trail in Digos City, please contact Davao del Sur Provincial Tourism.
Medical Certificate
A Medical Certificate confirming your fitness to climb is mandatory.
Climbing Gear and Equipment
- All-weather Tent (most tour agencies do not include this)
- Sleeping bag
- Sturdy hiking shoes (preferably mid- to high-cut for enhanced ankle support)
- Slippers (optional, for relaxing feet at the campsite)
- Rainproof gear (jacket, poncho, umbrella, garbage bag)
- Warm Clothes (temperatures at the campsite and summit can drop to single-digit centigrade)
- Headlamp or torchlight
- Water (2–3 liters)
- Personal Water Container (for refilling at water sources)
- Mess kit (to minimize waste, please bring your own plates, cups, and utensils)
- Power bank or extra batteries
- Gadgets (Cameras, smartphone, drones, etc.)
- Personal Medicine
- Trail Snacks
- Toiletries
The Kapatagan Back Trail and Rough Itinerary
Mt Apo offers several trails, each with unique starting points. Popular options include the Sta Cruz Trail (Difficult), Kidapawan Trail (Very Challenging), Bansalan Trail (Moderate), and Kapatagan Trail (Moderate). For this particular climb, we chose the Kapatagan Trail, commencing in Davao del Sur. It’s a suitable trail for beginners and casual climbers, showcasing scenic landscapes, farmlands, mossy forests, and the challenging boulders section. Below is a general itinerary, subject to possible adjustments:
Day One
- 0600 Meet up in Kapatagan (breakfast and purchase packed lunch)
- 0815 ETA Sitio Paradise (briefing)
- 0830 Start trek
- 1200 Lunch at Trail Junction
- 1600 ETA Gudi Gudi Campsite
- 1800 Dinner
- 2000 Lights out
Day Two
- 0100 Wake-up call
- 0200 Start trek to the summit
- 0500 Arrive at the Boulders, waiting for sunrise
- 0700 Breakfast at White Sand e-camp
- 0800 ETA summit and explore the crater lake and the three peaks
- 1100 Lunch at White Sand e-camp
- 1300 Descend to Camp Gudi Gudi
- 1600 ETA Camp Gudi-Gudi
- 1900 Dinner
- 2100 Lights out
Day Three
- 0500 Wake-up call
- 0530 Breakfast
- 0600 Break camp
- 0730 Start trek
- 1000 Trail Junction
- 1200 Lunch on the trail
- 1300 ETA Sitio Paradise
Sitio Paradise Jump-off
The first day of our climb dawned with a bright cobalt sky and gentle wisps of passing clouds—a sight I quietly appreciated as it promised good weather for the days ahead. The Mt Apo peak stood cloudless and clear. Our group gathered at the open court of Sitio Paradise in Kapatagan, where we met our guides, Kuya Badong and his petite yet strong assistant, Joyce. We each received IDs with unique numbers. We also secured our porters, weighed and distributed our belongings, and received a briefing about the climb. It was also fascinating to observe how the porters modify their sako (sack) to consolidate multiple bags into one backpack, affectionately calling their modified bags “North Sack.”
From Open Farmlands to Forest Trails
My smartwatch GPS indicated we were already at 1,546 meters above sea level, leaving approximately 1,400 meters to ascend to the peak. We commenced our hike at 8:20 AM on a rough road intersecting the scenic farmlands of Kapatagan, with the Mt Apo peaks teasing us on the horizon. We reached the forest cover a couple of hours and at least a kilometer later.
Once we entered the lower forest, Kuya Brando would occasionally share trivia during our rest stops in his “Kaunting Kaalaman! (A little knowledge)” segments. This included insights into the local flora and interesting facts about Mt Apo, often punctuated with humor. A bit of laughter proved a welcome relief from the growing fatigue as the climb became steeper and the trail occasionally muddy.
Into the Mossy Forest
By 11 AM, we arrived at an area our guides called “the Junction,” a significant intersection of several trails offering good forest cover and ample space for rest. We eagerly devoured our packed lunches here, replenishing our energy for the next leg of the journey. I could already feel the weight of my 14kg backpack.
The forest grew denser, with a noticeable carpet of moss covering the ground. The trail also presented more challenges. I lost count of how many times we had to step over fallen trees or duck beneath them. Certain sections required the use of ropes to assist us in pulling ourselves up steep inclines.
We then reached the area known as the “Landslide,” where a significant number of trees had fallen across the trail due to a natural landslide. The fallen trees possessed an eerie beauty, serving as a base for various plants naturally adorning the forest floor.
Gudi-Gudi Campsite
By 2:20 PM, we finally reached the Gudi-Gudi Campsite after replenishing our water at a nearby source. We arrived in high spirits, marching to the tune of a graduation hymn—Kuya Badong’s amusing way of congratulating us on reaching the campsite.
Being Holy Week, a peak travel season for Filipinos, I wasn’t surprised to find the camp bustling. I heard there were over 200 climbers, creating a veritable tent village. Our assigned camp was even further up, on the “3rd Floor.” I appreciated that our guides had already set up our tents. Honestly, it felt a bit cramped, especially in my area. Nestled within the forest, Gudi-Gudi Campsite offered limited views of the sky. However, macaques roamed the area, so securing belongings was advisable.
One advantage of our campsite was its proximity to the camp’s restroom area, which consisted of four restrooms and a shower. I was impressed by their decent cleanliness. However, due to the peak season demand, the water supply quickly depleted, forcing some to fetch water from another source a few meters back.
I must commend our organizers for the excellent preparation and stylish presentation of our meals. The food not only looked appealing but tasted delicious as well. Their kitchen setup was conveniently located near our camps, making the walk to our “dining area” manageable.
The camping experience itself could have been better. I imagine that outside of peak season, the ambiance would be much more pleasant. There were simply too many pet peeve triggers for me: campers with blaring Bluetooth speakers and boisterous groups acting as if they had the entire camp to themselves. We are in nature, people; please leave those city comforts behind and simply enjoy the natural environment as it is. It would be wonderful if the LGU could implement campsite rules regarding noise pollution in the forest.
Sunrise at the Boulders
Day two of our climb focused on reaching the peak and returning. Our wake-up call was at 1 AM. After a warm drink and a quick snack, we were ready to hike by 2 AM. Since this was a back-trail climb, we only carried essentials for the summit ascent, leaving some of our belongings at the camp. A camp marshal checked each of our names before allowing us to proceed—a good protocol to ensure only registered climbers continued.
With only the beams of our headlamps illuminating the trail, we continued our ascent towards the grassland portion. Eventually, we reached a clearing, and the stars greeted our climb. As we gained altitude, the city lights of Davao and its bay lay in quiet slumber below.
By 4:00 AM, we finally reached the Boulders section of the trail—more than a kilometer of challenging, rocky terrain. The pungent smell of sulfur was strong by this point, and wearing gloves was highly recommended. Besides the sharp rocks, the cold and sulfur-induced residue could feel stingy on bare hands over time.
The sky began to lighten and burst into vibrant colors by 5 AM. Knowing I wouldn’t reach the designated sunrise spot by then, I stayed put to capture the fleeting light from my location. I reveled in the hues of the sunrise and marveled at the lunar landscape unfolding before me. For a moment, I couldn’t believe I was so close to the summit of Mt Apo, witnessing this breathtaking sunrise and once again in awe of the world’s beauty.
With the environment bathed in light, I could finally discern the flora in the area. I consulted a friend, now a saribuhay-influencer, Celine Murillo, about noteworthy plants. She sent several suggestions, but the climb was quite taxing, and my focus remained on the ascent. Here, I spotted the “Ayusip,” Philippine wild blueberries (Vaccinium myrtoides) found among the boulders of Mt Apo. They were edible and quite delicious too.
White Sand e-camp and Crater Lake
So engrossed was I in taking photos and videos of the scenery and flora that I didn’t realize I had fallen quite a distance behind my companions. However, other climbers were heading in the same direction, so I wasn’t too concerned about getting lost. I resumed climbing over the boulders, and by 6:30 AM, I finally rejoined my group at the White Sand e-camp (Emergency Camp).
The cold was biting that morning at this picturesque patch of almost equally level land, surrounded by white boulders and foliage tall enough to offer wind shelter. It was an ideal campsite, though intended only for emergency use. We enjoyed the comfort of warm coffee and ate our packed breakfast here, with the dramatic rock face of the peaks as our backdrop. My smartwatch indicated we were already at 2,700 meters above sea level. Great! Only 200 more meters to climb.
The final stretch, however, was not going to be easy. We had to navigate an 87-degree steep rock wall trail. Taking one careful step after another, we finally reached Mt Apo’s Crater Lake. Looking back, a sea of clouds was forming—simply amazing.
The crater lake appeared shallow, though we didn’t test its depth. I ventured to the side banks to admire this modestly sized lake, its surface rippled by small waves carried by the incoming winds.
Mt Apo Three Peaks
Mt Apo boasts three distinct peaks. Coming from the crater lake, the closest and easiest to reach is the Digos City Peak. It was the first peak we summited and, naturally, the most memorable for me. Finally, we had reached the roof of the Philippines, something I never truly thought possible in my lifetime. We were also blessed with bright weather and a dramatic sea of clouds. I believe we spent an hour simply taking photos and soaking in the panoramic views.
Initially, we only planned to visit one peak. However, glancing at my smartwatch, the elevation hadn’t yet reached 2,900 meters. Was there a discrepancy? Or was there a higher peak nearby? Fortunately, some of my climbing companions were eager to explore the upper peaks. Yes, my knees and leg muscles were already protesting, but we were already here. Why postpone it? I might never have such favorable conditions again in the future.
So, we embarked on a short hike to Mt Apo’s Mother Peak. It took us less than half an hour to reach the main summit. The peak was rocky and still bore the old, dilapidated signage. We encountered a group of trail runners and borrowed their Philippine flag. It felt incredible to wave the flag at the highest point. My watch? Still short of 2,895 meters. Before heading to the other peak, we spotted Lake Jordan among the views.
Just 15 minutes away, we reached Mt Apo’s Kidapawan Peak. Among the three, this one struck me as the most picturesque. A short pathway led to a rocky summit, and the signage was relatively new. From here, we could also see Lake Venado, the country’s highest lake below, which was closed at the time. Excitement surged as we realized we had visited all three peaks! How amazing was that! My GPS? It finally registered 2,891 meters above sea level. I suppose my watch has about a 50-meter discrepancy.
Back to Camp
Feeling elated, both literally and emotionally, we made our way back down to the White Sand E-camp, ready for lunch. We devoured our hot sinigang with gusto, enough to fuel our descent. It was midday, and the heat beat down on our backs. We could now see the trail we had traversed that morning.
Descending has always been my weak point, and the rocky, sometimes unstable terrain of The Boulders made it particularly challenging. My left knee had only recently recovered from an injury, so I was cautious with every step. It was slow and arduous, and I acknowledged that I was far behind. But I would eventually reach camp, albeit at a slower pace.
I finally caught up with the group near the solfataras, the dramatic sulfur vents that were even visible from below. Once we reached the grasslands, the dirt trail became much easier to navigate. I must thank my companion guides, Joyce and company, for helping lighten my load on the way down. By 2:30 PM, I made my way back to camp, weary but happy and content.
The evening was colder than the first night, and we cheerfully gathered for dinner with a few new guests who were climbing the next day. I could sense everyone felt satisfied but also a bit exhausted from the climb. I planned to get as much sleep as possible. So, after refilling my water container and freshening up a bit, I did my best to get some much-needed rest.
Descending to Sitio Paradise
I woke up as early as 4:30 AM and began breaking camp. Packing up my things is a slow process for me, so I started after my morning meditation. This time, I made sure to carry only my smaller bag, entrusting my larger bag to my porter. And indeed, these individuals were impressively strong for their build.
Breakfast was again presented beautifully, and we indulged heartily. After days of climbing, my legs seemed to have adapted to the stress and load, making the descent considerably faster than usual. The familiarity of the trail also helped. We left Gudi-Gudi Campsite around 7 AM and reached the Forest Junction by 9 AM. A few slips and slides occurred, but we maintained a steady pace, arriving at the farmland by 10 AM and finally reaching Sitio Paradise’s open court by 11 AM. I was relieved to have enough time to freshen up before our flight in Davao later that evening.
Certificate of Climb
A generous serving of binignit (a local version of ginataang bilo-bilo) and calamansi juice sufficiently satisfied our appetites after descending Mt Apo. The day was cloudy, and Mt Apo was no longer behind us—a metaphorical closing of a chapter for us. Kuya Badong and Joyce proceeded to award each of us our certificates. I felt giddy and satisfied with what I had accomplished. I was doubtful at first if I’d be able to climb Mt Apo, not being in my prime physical health, but a little preparation, perseverance, and experience truly helped.
I thanked our guides and our porters as the van rolled out. In my mind, I also thanked my companions. I extend my gratitude to the Tourism Promotions Board and Davao Del Sur Tourism for this incredible opportunity. I looked at the certificate in my hand and couldn’t help but feel a little teary-eyed as the accomplishment began to sink in. I have received many certificates in my lifetime, but I believe this one, like the one I received in Kota Kinabalu before, is worthy of safekeeping. It not only represents how I conquered the highest peak of the Philippines but also, more importantly, myself.
COMMENTS