Discovering Quezon, Palawan: Beyond the Cradle of Civilization

While most travelers head north to El Nido, the town of Quezon in Southern Palawan offers something the north has lost: a s...

While most travelers head north to El Nido, the town of Quezon in Southern Palawan offers something the north has lost: a sense of profound stillness and deep history. Known as the “Cradle of Philippine Civilization,” Quezon is a destination where you can walk through the dawn of humanity in the morning and sleep in a luxury tent by the river at night.

Liyang Cave Chamber

The Tabon Cave

The Echoes of the Past: Tabon Cave Complex

After a four-hour journey from Puerto Princesa, we arrived at the Tabon Cave Complex, a National Cultural Treasure. Walking through these limestone chambers feels like entering a cathedral of time. It was here that the remains of the “Tabon Man” were found, dating back over 20,000 years.

I was ecstatic to finally visit the site; like many Filipinos, I had only read about the Tabon Man in school books. Standing in the mouth of the cave and looking out at the horizon, you realize you are seeing the exact same view as our ancestors did millennia ago.

Lipuun Point cave mouth

Tawa-Tawa Boardwalk and Beach

The site is managed by the National Museum of the Philippines (NMP). The experience begins with a walk of over a kilometer along the Tawa-tawa Boardwalk, which provides a stunning preview of the rugged coastline and local wildlife. During the walk, I was lucky enough to spot several birds: a Great Egret, a Pacific Reef Heron (dark morph), a Common Sandpiper, and a Blue Rock Thrush.

Due to limited time, we explored three of the seven caves currently open to visitors: the Tabon Cave chamber (where the skull cap and jaw were excavated), the Diwata Cave, and Liyang Cave near the Cave mouth. There are currently over 200 documented caves within the complex waiting to be fully explored.

National Museum Tabon Cave Complex

Replica of Manunggol Jar and Skullcap

• Hours: 9 AM - 5 PM daily (last admission 4:30 PM).
• Cave Tour Schedule: Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays, and Sundays at 9 AM & 1 PM.
• Booking: Required 3 days in advance for guided tours. Contact the NMP Tabon Facebook page or call 0927 639 5303.

Mansaluyan Island

The Uncharted Blue: Island Hopping

The islands in Quezon remain largely untouched, lacking the crowds and commercial facilities of the northern tours. We spent a morning exploring three “raw” gems, launching from the shores of Barangay Isugod:

Double Island

• Nansirik Island (Mansirik): Famous for its striking rock formations and crystal-clear snorkeling spots.
• Mansaluyan Island: A beautiful contrast of a sandy beach strip on one end and a rugged, rocky landscape on the other. It is a favorite stop for lunch and snacks.
• Double Island: A unique spot where two islands are connected by a sandbar, offering double the shoreline and incredible views of the reef.

The multi-tiered Tumarbong Falls

Into the Wild: Tumarbong Falls and Pandora Glamping

From Tumarbong Bridge, we took a scenic and relaxing 15-minute river cruise to reach Tumarbong Falls. This refreshing, multi-tiered waterfall is tucked deep within the lush jungle.

Tumarbong Falls

Pandora Glamping Site

Located right beside the falls is Pandora Glamping Site. It offers a “back-to-nature” experience without sacrificing comfort—perfect for those who want to hear the rhythm of the river while falling asleep in beautifully appointed tents. I highly recommend sipping a warm drink while enjoying the scenery from their cafe veranda.

• Booking: Pandora Glamping Facebook

Cafe Atreyu

Where to Eat and Stay: Local Hospitality

The “Southern Vibe” of Quezon is best experienced through its unique local spots:

• Cafe Atreyu: This Cordillera-inspired cafe is an artistic, soulful space in the heart of town. The food is fresh and flavorful, and the coffee provides a much-needed boost for the day’s adventures. Visit Cafe Atreyu
• Paruparung Bughaw: For a serene stay, this eco-conscious retreat (meaning “Blue Butterfly”) offers a peaceful sanctuary. It feels more like a private garden escape than a hotel, with an eclectic and sumptuous menu. They also conveniently provide their own Quezon Island Hopping Tours. Visit Paruparung Bughaw

Paruparung Bughaw

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Boatman near Double Island

How to Get There: The Journey South

Quezon is approximately 150 kilometers south of Puerto Princesa City.

• By Public Van: The most efficient method. Head to the San Jose Bus Terminal in Puerto Princesa and look for “Charing” or “SBE” van lines.
• Travel Time: 3 to 4 hours.
• Cost: Approximately ₱250–₱350 per person.
• Local Tourism Office: For more info, contact Quezon Palawan Turismo.

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Common sandpiper and Blue Rock Thrush

Travel Essentials: Know Before You Go

• Cash is King: ATMs are very limited. Withdraw enough cash in Puerto Princesa before heading south.
• Connectivity: Expect a “digital detox.” While signals work in the town proper, they are spotty at the caves and islands.
• Packing List: Aqua shoes (for rocky shores), a dry bag, a flashlight for cave corners, and insect repellent for the jungle.
• Eco-Respect: Quezon is a sacred historical site. Avoid touching cave walls or taking “souvenirs” like rocks or shells.

Great Egret and Pacific Reef Heron (dark morph)