New Manila’s Old World Tales: A Manilakad After Dark Walking Tour

Walking has always been a wonderful way to truly learn about a place. Whenever I’m in a new area, I make i...

Walking has always been a wonderful way to truly learn about a place. Whenever I’m in a new area, I make it a point to walk around and become familiar with it. While solitary explorations are fascinating, guided walks offer truly insightful depth, especially with an excellent guide. One such interesting journey I recently took was in New Manila. Led by our erudite guide, Jing (JP) Ordona of Manilakad Tours, our 10-plus-kilometer nocturnal walk unmasked old-world tales of wealth, glamour, politics, and mystery that lie far beyond the famed horrors of Balete Drive.

GORA Lane at Hemady Way

Hemady Way and GORA Lanes: A Start in Urban Renewal

While our walk didn't officially start at the Doña Hemady Avenue (or Hemady Way) corner with E. Rodriguez Avenue, this intersection makes a great starting point for any self-guided tour of New Manila. Here, you'll see information boards detailing Quezon City’s GORA Lanes project. The acronym stands for Green Open Reclaimed Access, a 5.39-kilometer pedestrian corridor that includes arteries like Scout Tobias and Mother Ignacia, designed to champion walkability and urban interconnectivity.

More significantly, the street itself is named in honor of the influential matriarch, Doña Magdalena Hashim Ysmael-Hemady, a Lebanese immigrant and pioneer real-estate developer who shaped the neighborhood in the 1930s with its signature large-cut, exclusive lots.

Buttenbruch Building

Christ the King Seminary: A Castle of Faith

The first major stop brought us face-to-face with the distinctive, castle-like architecture of the Christ the King Mission Seminary along E. Rodriguez Avenue. The main edifice, known as the Buttenbruch Building, was designed by German architect Arthur Julius Niclaus Gabler-Gumbert and deliberately patterned after medieval European castles.

Diocesan Shrine of Jesus the Divine Word Interiors

This was the first seminary established in the world dedicated to Christ the King, founded in 1933 by the Society of the Divine Word (SVD) missionaries. The building honors its heroic founder, Fr. Theodore Buttenbruch, SVD, who bravely distributed aid to prisoners during WWII despite the Japanese occupation.

Garden of the Divine Word

Continuing our stroll within the solemn, leafy compound, we passed the Diocesan Shrine of Jesus the Divine Word and admired its impressive Art Deco-style interior. Like a hidden oasis, we then discovered the Garden of the Divine Word, a high-end columbarium featuring an elegant glass chapel and beautifully manicured grounds. (P.S. JP gave us a fascinating piece of trivia here that you’ll only discover if you join his Manilakad tour!)

St. Joseph Convent of Perpetual Adoration

St. Joseph Convent of Perpetual Adoration: The Pink Sisters' Vow

Just a short walk along Doña Hemady Avenue, we visited another unique religious sanctuary: the St. Joseph Convent of Perpetual Adoration. This structure’s architecture is a highlight, as it was designed by National Artist for Architecture, José María Zaragoza. The convent’s signature pink color belongs to the order cloistered within—the Holy Spirit Adoration Sisters, affectionately known as the “Pink Sisters.” These contemplative nuns are renowned for their singular mission of offering perpetual adoration (24/7 non-stop prayer).

Re Nou Space and Fruits in Ice Cream

The Ice Cream House (Re Nou Space)

Turning onto 11th Street, we stopped at an eye-catching mansion. Playfully dubbed the “Ice Cream House” because it serves as the distribution point for the Fruits in Ice Cream (FIC) brand, the mansion is formally known as Re Nou Space, a dynamic creative hub used for film location shoots and art exhibits—a literal experience of New Manila’s heritage adapting to its modern, creative economy.

Villa Caridad

Broadway Avenue: The Glitz and The Gate

The approximately 1.5-kilometer stretch of Broadway Avenue remains the most historically charged road in New Manila. Dubbed “Millionaires’ Row,” its unique design made it the exclusive address for the country's most prominent figures, from the Aquino family to senators and movie stars. Yet, this glitzy past is shadowed by the street's infamous local nickname, the “Gateway to Hell,” due to paranormal tales that emerge from its dilapidated mansions.

Villa Caridad details

Villa Caridad: The Mansion That Couldn't Be Destroyed

The Villa Caridad stands as the most prominent symbol of Broadway’s magnificent decay. Its gothic architecture, complete with gargoyles, naturally attracts attention and has been the set for classic Filipino horror films like Hiwaga sa Balete Drive and Halimaw sa Banga. This mansion’s ruined condition is tied to a famous legend: when a subsequent owner attempted demolition, workers reportedly heard chilling wails and cries of anguish, forcing them to halt the work and leaving the property in its iconic state.

Wisdom Park meditation hall

Wisdom Park stupa and Bodhi tree

Wisdom Park: A Multicultural Addition

One of the most profound and contrasting finds along Broadway Avenue is the serene Wisdom Park. This Buddhist center (Vajrayana tradition), established in 2012, is a unique, multicultural addition to the area. It features a sacred Stupa, a blessed Bodhi Tree, and a meditation hall, serving as a peaceful hub for study and contemplation.

Bahay Sentenaryo

Balete Drive: The Origin of the Ghost

Finally, we reached Balete Drive, the street most famous for the urban legend of the "White Lady." This ubiquitous ghost story, which emerged in the 1950s, is widely believed to have been fabricated by a reporter based on a fatal accident near the street in 1949.

It was late when we walked along this street, and honestly, I felt nothing sinister or haunting about the place. I was more astounded by the private, gated properties of the powerful Cojuangco family and the inconspicuous Opus Dei House. It leaves one to wonder: did the legend truly start to ward the public away from the privacy of these exclusive estates? What did fascinate me was the facade of the Bahay Sentenaryo, a historical-looking antique shop.

With Sir JP and Mam Kelley

Other Points of Interest: The Enduring Charm

What I've outlined are just a few highlights of a truly deep dive into New Manila. The tour offered so many more interesting sites and anecdotes that it took us at least eight hours and over 12,000 steps to finish! If you decide to do a DIY tour, these other points of interest are essential for experiencing the district’s complex charm:

Former Residence of Senator Geronima Pecson

• Doña Narcisa “Sisang” Buencamino-de Leon Mansion: This spectacular Mission Revival Style home, designed by National Artist Pablo S. Antonio, is one of the neighborhood's crown jewels and remains beautifully intact.
• Former Residence of Senator Geronima Pecson: Look for the National Historical Commission marker at her former house, citing the achievements of the first Filipina senator and a key figure in education and social work.
• Minor Basilica of the National Shrine of Our Lady of Mount Carmel: This striking modernist structure, designed by Maximo Vicente Jr., serves as the center of Carmelite devotion in the country.

These landmarks provide the perfect foundation for experiencing the timeless, layered history of this unique Quezon City district.

Minor Basilica of the National Shrine of Our Lady of Mount Carmel